| Last
Update 2/07/05 - 2:31pm
Paints used
| Dark Burnt Umber |
Burnt Umber |
Gnoll Flesh |
Mudstone |
TerraCotta Red |
Plate Steel |
Mithril Silver |
Tin Bitz |
| Delta |
Delta |
Reaper |
Delta |
GW |
Reaper |
GW |
GW |
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If any of this can't be found, you can either find a similar color
from a different brand or you can mix your way to a quality version
of it. The last three are metallics, so you should try getting them
as they are. But I do believe Plate Steel(Reaper) and Bolt Gun Metal(GW)
are interchangable.
STEP ONE: Wash and Prime
Unfortunetly, all of mine have been primed and are somewhat painted,
so there are no visuals for this first step. But it shouldn't be hard
to follow without photo reference. Take your miniature and wash it
with soap and hot water and then dry. This will remove any oils and
grime that could have possibly ended up on the figure. It really helps
keep the primer on, and makes the miniature last longer.
After washing and drying, setup a newspapered area and begin priming
with black primer. Take short quick sprays all over the standing miniature,
trying not to make a heavy coat. Do not spray it close, and try not
holding one position long when spraying to keep the priming thin.
Thick amounts of primer can ruin the detail of the miniature.
Once this first coat is accomplished, let the miniature dry then lay
it on its back, front or side, and prime the missed areas. Again,
try keeping these to short quick sprays. After it dries, rotate and
repeat until the miniature is solid black. Underneat the base of the
miniature doesn't need to be painted though, as it will eventually
scratch away anyway from use. If you miss any small areas with the
spray on primer, try using a paint on primer to fix these tiny mistakes,
then paint them black once dry.
STEP TWO: Distinguishing The Miniature
If you notice, each miniature for the Doom game is either Blue,
Green or Red. To keep this concept, I've painted the rim of the
base the matching color. Heres a simple paint guide to match:
| Bright Red |
Azure Blue |
Hunter Green |
| Delta |
Delta |
Delta |
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It will probably take two to three coats to get the rim to look solid
and vibrant, so take your time. If you get a bit of color on the base
of the miniature, just get out some black paint and overlay the mistake
until its not noticable.
STEP THREE: First Layer(Dark Flesh Tone)
The next step is to use the Dark Umber Brown as a quick drybrush
layer. This color is so dark of a brown, you wont be able to tell
much if you miss too much. Basically you want to drybrush anywhere
that isn't metal(forearm guns, back of head). Drybrushing is a technique
where you dab a medium sized brush into your paint, and paint off
most of the paint from the bristles onto a piece of paper, then
start brushing over the miniature. This technique makes it so the
parts of the miniature that stick out get painted, while crevices,
cracks, and everything else gets untouched. This will pop out the
texture really nicely once we move to the following steps.
STEP FOUR: Second Layer(Medium Flesh Tone)
This time we will use the Burnt Umber brown for a new drybrush layer.
Take your time, and drybrush across the body once again with this
lighter brown. Make sure to let some of the darker color show through
as you do this, so it gives the body a sense of gradience from dark
to light. Make sure you've also brushed out the majority of the
ink from the bristles of the brush before you begin. Too much ink
can really make a mess while trying to drybrush.
STEP FIVE: Third Layer(Lightest Flesh Tone)
This last drybrush layer we will use the Gnoll Flesh. Be very sparing
in this drybrush layer, as it will be the highlights of the dingy
flesh of the Mancubus. Take your time, and make sure to have as
little paint in your brush when drybrushing.
STEP SIX: Eyes and Nails
Next are the easy parts. Take your fine detail brush, and load it
with just a little bit of terracotta red. With a steady hand, paint
in the eyeballs. Wash out the brush, then load it with Mudstone(greyish
yellow), and paint each individual nail on the feet of the Mancubus.
Take your time, and if you get any paint on the base of the miniature,
just go back with black paint and clean it up once the paint is
dry.
STEP SEVEN: Metallics
Here's where the mechanical parts come to life. Take either Plate
Steel or Boltgun Metal and prepare the brush for drybrushing. take
your time across the mechanical parts, and it will start to look
really nice with the black in the cracks of the mechanical parts,
and dark metal around the rest. Make sure this is a heavy wide coat.
Next, clean your brush and load it with some Mithril Silver and
prepare it for drybrushing. This time be very sparing, and just
get the edges of the mechanical parts. This will create a really
nice highlighting effect.
The last part is to use the Tin Bitz, and paint random parts of
the metal such as a cable or two, and paint them with this copper/bronze
colored metallic paint. This will mix it up a bit, its purely optional.
STEP EIGHT: Varnish
A Varnish is basically a clear hold on the miniature's paint job
to ensure there will be less chances of cracking and chipping down
the road. There are several Varnishes out there, I use the Delta
Matte Varnish. Out of any brand you purchase(Armory, Reaper, GW,
Vallejo, Delta) make sure to get a Matte Varnish, not the Gloss.
A Gloss varnish can make your miniature look really shiny and ugly.
Its not that pretty, trust me. I use a paint-on varnish, but you
can try a spray varnish, just use a similar technique as priming,
with quick small sprays from a distance. Thin coats are important
in this process, because the more it builds, the shinier the miniature
can become. Shine equals Bad. After this, your miniature is ready
to do some damage in Doom.
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