| Last
Update 2/16/05 - 1:04pm

From now on, all the guides will have a larger intro and finale
pic for better detail :)
Paints used
| Burnt Umber |
Red Iron Oxide |
Golden Brown |
Mudstone |
Red Ink |
| Delta |
Delta |
Delta |
Delta |
GW |
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If any of this can't be found, you can either find a similar color
from a different brand or you can mix your way to a quality version
of it. The last color though is an ink, so you should try getting
the actual color from Games Workshop.
STEP ONE: Wash and Prime

Take your miniature and wash it with soap and hot water and then
dry. This will remove any oils and grime that could have possibly
ended up on the figure. It really helps keep the primer on, and
makes the miniature last longer.
After washing and drying, setup a newspapered area and begin priming
with black primer. Take short quick sprays all over the standing
miniature, trying not to make a heavy coat. Do not spray it close,
and try not holding one position long when spraying to keep the
priming thin. Thick amounts of primer can ruin the detail of the
miniature.
Once this first coat is accomplished, let the miniature dry then
lay it on its back, front or side, and prime the missed areas. Again,
try keeping these to short quick sprays. After it dries, rotate
and repeat until the miniature is solid black. Underneat the base
of the miniature doesn't need to be painted though, as it will eventually
scratch away anyway from use. If you miss any small areas with the
spray on primer, try using a paint on primer to fix these tiny mistakes,
then paint them black once dry.
STEP TWO: Distinguishing The Miniature

If you notice, each miniature for the Doom game is either Blue,
Green or Red. To keep this concept, I've painted the rim of the
base the matching color. Heres a simple paint guide to match:
| Bright Red |
Azure Blue |
Hunter Green |
| Delta |
Delta |
Delta |
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It will probably take two to three coats to get the rim to look solid
and vibrant, so take your time. If you get a bit of color on the base
of the miniature, just get out some black paint and overlay the mistake
until its not noticable.
STEP THREE: First Layer(Dark Flesh Tone)
The next step is to use the Burnt Umber Brown as a quick drybrush
layer.Drybrush everywhere quickly, and dont spend too much time
fussing, as this is just a base coat. Drybrushing is a technique
where you dab a medium sized brush into your paint, and paint off
most of the paint from the bristles onto a piece of paper, then
start brushing over the miniature. This technique makes it so the
parts of the miniature that stick out get painted, while crevices,
cracks, and everything else gets untouched. This will pop out the
texture really nicely once we move to the following steps.
STEP FOUR: Second Layer(Red Flesh)

This time we will use the Red Iron Oxide for a new drybrush layer.
Take your time, and drybrush across the body once again with this
lighter color. Make sure to let some of the darker color show through
as you do this, so it gives the body a sense of gradience from dark
to light. Make sure you've also brushed out the majority of the
paint from the bristles of the brush before you begin. Too much
ink can really make a mess while trying to drybrush.
STEP FIVE: Third Layer(Lighter Flesh Tone)

This last drybrush layer we will use the Golden Brown. This is where
the figure will start to pop with detail. Be very sparing with this
drybrush, and leave some areas more red, while some areas like the
very bumpy chest and neck should be painted more. This will really
make the figure stand out, and give him less of a meaty color tone.
Be sure to leave the area around the mouth red in the following
flesh drybrushing layers. We want his mouth to look very red and
meaty, as though someone peeled off his lips(eww).
STEP SIX: Killing The Orange

The Golden Brown will give off a sense of orange that we don't want
all over the miniature, just in some areas for gradient purposes.
So finally we give this guy his last drybrush with Mudstone. Be
very sparing, just enough to tone down that vibrance from the orange
in some areas.
STEP SEVEN: Extreme Makeover
Here is where we do the detail work for the little things
on the Hell Knight.
A) Monster Manicure

First we want to paint the nails with a fine detail brush, using
Mudstone. Paint each one slowly, making sure that each is a solid
stroke. Don't forget the duclaw in the back of the foot, I almost
did right before I varnished it!
B) Bleeching The Teeth

We want to give this Hell Knight some nice teeth, but not bright
white, so sticking with the Mudstone and the detail brush, we want
to paint each tooth individually, starting from the root and brushing
down out of the mouth. For the bottom teeth, just hold the miniature
upside down, keeping the strokes going from root to tip. If you
make small marks, with just a tiny gap in between each, you'll be
set.
STEP EIGHT: Varnish

A Varnish is basically a clear hold on the miniature's paint job
to ensure there will be less chances of cracking and chipping down
the road. There are several Varnishes out there, I use the Delta
Matte Varnish. Out of any brand you purchase(Armory, Reaper, GW,
Vallejo, Delta) make sure to get a Matte Varnish, not the Gloss.
A Gloss varnish can make your miniature look really shiny and ugly.
Its not that pretty, trust me. I use a paint-on varnish, but you
can try a spray varnish, just use a similar technique as priming,
with quick small sprays from a distance. Thin coats are important
in this process, because the more it builds, the shinier the miniature
can become. Shine equals Bad. After this, your miniature is ready
to do some damage in Doom.
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